The blocks surrounding Ritan Park, or Temple of the Sun Park, are some of the most eclectic in Beijing, with Chinese, Russian and Western influences at every turn. Featuring three of the best markets in town, the area is teeming with bargain-hungry shoppers, as well as diplomats who call the local Jianguomen embassy district home, and Slavic traders selling furs in the stalls of 'Little Moscow'.
Begin with breakfast at Grandma's Kitchen in Xiushui Nanlu, off Jianguomenwai. Bottomless cups of coffee and hearty servings of pancakes or French toast will give all the energy you need for a big day of walking and shopping. In summer, nab a seat out the front and indulge in a spot of people watching.
Head north up Ritan Xilu pass Guanghua Lu and you will come across stalls selling purple mink hats, mustard-hued fur jackets, and fluorescent green, knee-high boots. Chinese noodle houses are replaced by cafes selling borscht and pastries, and rickshaw drivers solicit you in Russian. You are now in the heart of Little Moscow, and even if you are not in the market for the fashion listed above, it is a fascinating place to window shop. Moscow restaurant, on the corner of Guanghua Lu and Ritan Xilu, is a popular Russian haunt, serving up hearty soups and creamy stroganoff with cheap vodka and live entertainment.
Around 220 yards of Guanghua Lu, take a right and enter Ritan Park at the West Gate. In the name of Olympic spirit, many of Beijing's parks have abolished entrance fees – and this just happens to be one of them. It is one of the oldest parks in Beijing, dating back to the 1530's when it was a place for Qing and Ming Dynasties emperors to pay homage to the God of the Sun. Today, it is a bit less exclusive, with tai chi enthusiasts, ballroom dancers, fitness fanatics and those just looking for a bit of respite in the shade of the droopy willow trees.
Just before Ritan Donglu stands the Ritan Office Building which, despite its name, is actually packed with dozens of clothes and shoe boutiques selling mostly genuine brands at much reduced prices. Popular German restaurant Schindlers Tankstelle is nestled next door, and has one of the most coveted beer gardens in town. Stretching into Ritan Park, the back patio is a lovely shaded vantage point to sit back with a stein and absorb park life.
Turn right at Dongdaqiao Lu, passing Tibetan peddlers selling turquoise, silver and other colorful trinkets, before you reach shopping Mecca, the Silk Market, on the corner of Jianguowenwai Dajie and Dongdajie Lu. Putting some of Beijing's World Heritage-listed sites to shame, the seven-storey complex is the third most well-known attraction in Beijing, after the Great Wall and the Forbidden City – small wonder considering that 60,000 people visit on your average Saturday. The market today houses over 1,700 stalls complete with 3,000 smooth-talking salespeople. By the time you have bargained with just a handful of them you will be ready for a strong drink. Cross the street and make your way to the third floor of the East Twin Tower. The hooky Philippe Starck-designed Lan Club sprawls over 1.2 acres and comes with eagle thrones and strong martinis.
Entrance Fee: Free
Opening Hours:
06:00 - 21:00 (winter); 06:00 - 22:00 (summer)
Transportation: Take Bus No. 1, 4, 57 or 729 and get off at Ritan Road; Take Bus No. 112 or 846 and get off at Shenlu Street; Take Bus No. 44, 750 or 800 and get off at Yabao Road; Take Bus No. 28, 43 or 110 and get off at Fangcaodi Stop.
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